Tailoring Skills

Tailoring Skills

Winter Coat – Linton Tweed

A few years ago, I made myself a winter coat using a black and white dogtooth check fabric from Linton Tweed (the original fabric suppliers of Chanel) I shared a photo of this coat on Instagram the other day for throwback Thursday and the response was amazing, so I thought why not do a blog post on it to show the process of how it was made.

I wanted to push and teach myself tailoring techniques along the way, which was a learning curve to say the least but I am so grateful I did.

Fabric Stage One

First step was to source the right fabrics, as soon as I saw the black and white on Linton Tweed I knew that is what I wanted straight away and ordered it without even seeing a sample first! the black thread running through it has a sparkle to it so that suited me even more.

Cutting Out Stage

For me to create the tailoring effect on the coat I had to source a tailoring canvas which would line the inside of the coat to create a weight and structure, thanks to MacCulloch and Wallis for their fine selection of canvases I couldn’t go wrong.

The design of my coat was straight loose fitting, knee length with roll collar but I wanted the collar to be the statement piece so when cutting the pattern, I made it quite wide. The coat was quite a straight forward style but I knew the hang and pattern matching had to be spot on to show it off to its full potential.

Hand Sewing the Canvas

Cutting the actual pieces out of the fabric took careful time with making sure the pattern matched. I like to start with my two front pieces down the center front of the coat to work out how the pattern will run, then I would cut those two out to help when matching and cutting of the other pieces.

Pattern Matching

Canvas in Place

Once all the pieces were cut it was then ready to sew together, the time had come to use my hand sewing skills and sew the canvas to the inside of the coat, which was timely but so worth it and thanks to the many tailoring websites and YouTube to help me along the way! When this was all in place I matched up all my checks and hand basted the seams together ready to sew, one final check of the pattern matching and I could sew it altogether.


Adding the Lining to the Coat

Next step was to cut out the lining, I used a heavy black and white polka dot satin to complement the colours, it also added weight and gave the coat a nice hang. I’m used to putting lining’s in so this part was a walk in the park compared to the coat fabric.

Polka Dot Lining!

All in all, the coat itself took me a good week and half to make and I am so happy that I took this challenge on as it’s defiantly become one of my favourite coats to wear when it’s cold and I know it will last me lifetime.